Where the Gods Play

Taylor Curtis Rides his SuperJet into the Belly of Teahupo'o

Text and Photography by Dana Barry

World-class waves, the crystal-clear South Pacific Ocean, warm tropical breezes, and all the fresh fruit I could eat; all of these came to mind when I dream of the French Polynesian Islands. After months of organizing, planning and preparing, my dream suddenly became a reality when the chance opportunity of a free trip to Tahiti came my way.

Going to Tahiti was always a place that Taylor Curtis and I wanted to go to, but actually visiting the distant locale seemed just as much of a reality as the painted picture in our minds. That is, until last year at the Daytona Freeride in Florida when we met fellow freerider Alexandra Grossiord. Alexandra hails from Tahiti and offered to help us plan a trip to Tahiti. From that moment - and for the next nine months - we did everything we could to ensure that we did not miss the opportunity.

Tahiti - The Island of Love - is the largest of 115 islands and atolls that comprise French Polynesia. Tahiti today is a modern Pacific nation with a cosmopolitan blend of Polynesian and French population. The two most common languages spoken on this island are Tahitian and French, and any American planning to go there probably should brush up on the latter. English is not a second language to most of the residents there, and it's not common to run into many English-speakers at all.

(Above) Eight days in Tahiti is possibly one step away to dying and going to heaven. The hard part is getting back on the plane and heading home.

While the French culture and influence is undeniable, the Tahitians still take great pride in their ancient Polynesian heritage. The Chinese population (about 10 percent) monopolizes the retail trade, so when Tahitians talk about going shopping, they say they are going to "la Chine" or to the Chinese. The beautiful black pearls, cherished by natives and visitors alike, are a big business on the island and are seen around the necks of many of the Polynesian women.

I would be remiss were I not to mention their ancient and meaningful art tattooed all over their bodies. In fact, the word "tattoo" originated in Tahiti. The legend of Tohu, the god of tattoo, describes painting all the oceans' fish in beautiful colors and patterns. In Polynesian culture, tattoos have long been considered signs of beauty. This art is just part of life here, as each symbol and sign represents deep meaning of their own life and family.

(Above) These cabanas allow residents to fish from their king-sized beds. No joke.

Tahitians were very friendly and hospitable, as we found out from the moment we stepped off the plane, and we were immediately welcomed like family. Arriving in Papeete, we were greeted by Alex and the whole freerider crew: Herald Viriamu, Kohi Cheng, Berengere Lavergne, Mathieu Courtois, Loic Concaret and Marc Douton. Shortly after the meet-and-greet, we were whisked over to the other side of the airport where 30 Polynesian dancers and musicians showed us a very warm welcome to their island of paradise.

For the next eight days, riding was the only thing on Taylor's mind; he didn't waste a minute getting into the water. We stayed in the town of Punaauia, situated in the mountains right above the local's favorite riding spot, Taapuna. The wave that made this spot so famous is a peak right outside of the lagoon, about a quarter-mile from the launch ramp - a perfect place for those on skis, because the waves are too fast for the surfers, leaving the surf to the freeriders all day.

(Above) Tahitian local Mathieu Courtois launches off of another perfect Taapuna roller.

I learned that there are hardly any beaches in Tahiti. There are only two sand beaches, one of which is a very heavy surf spot and the other is on the windy side of the island and is swarmed by kite boarders. The lack of beaches provided a challenge in getting decent photography. Thankfully, the Taapuna crew showed me that they could put on quite a show in the air for my camera. The waves were pretty much perfect for aerial maneuvers.

Of course, Taapuna is not where you want to be riding unless you're ready to pay the consequences. Taylor quickly discovered this on his first re-entry as he was introduced to the island's infamous reef. He got banged up and the ski had a few rips and tears that needed addressing. 

"I really had to be careful with the reef," Taylor described. "It's a lot different than working every wave like a beach break. You have to really learn where the deep spots are for maneuvers back into the wave. That wave in particular... I think I will stick to jumping. All the waves are far from shore, so this adds to the caution factor."

(Above) Tahitian freeride cross-training.

Looking closely at the locals' skis tells the story that meeting the reef is just part of riding in Tahiti. You are bound to end up there and the key is to get out off of it as quickly as possible. 

Moving south of Taapuna is another really good spot called Sapinus. This wave is a left that is almost too good to be true. Actually, the riders rarely get to ride this, thanks to the constant swarms of surfers. We must have gotten lucky, because the day we showed up, there was not a surfer in sight. This unreal, peeling, barreling, left wave featured a channel, which allowed me to get super close-up shots of riders carving and getting barreled - another dream come true. That session was undeniably the best surf riding. And it was the most playful-looking wave of the trip. It is not always possible to ride Sapinus, but it is most definitely worth the effort to try.

(Above) Tahiti has its own freeriders like Loic Concaret, who’ve learned many of their sick tricks through watching countless hours of film footage (and Personal Watercraft Illustrated, of course).

Taylor was determined to ride one of the most famous waves of all: Teahupo'o. For those who have never heard of this wave, it lies on the southernmost corner of Tahiti, at the "end of the road." The fishing village of Teahupo'o is literally the end of the road, as beyond Teahupo'o, the mountains become too steep for roads to be constructed, and from that point on, the rest of island can only be accessed by boat or foot.

Teahupo'o is about an hour and a half south from the main city of Papeete, and the journey to Teahupo'o is mind-blowing in itself, as the mountains become thick with lush rainforest and the towns are few and far between. It seems as if you are journeying to the most beautiful place on earth. In the last 10 years, due to its blanket of exposure, surfers have run out of adjectives to describe it. Chopes, as Teahupo'o is also known, is now regarded as the most savage wave in the world. What adds to the tremendous fear factor is the topography of the ocean floor that skirts the break. The ocean floor drops away behind the wave. Without a continental shelf, the first landfall is a hard-packed, waist-deep horseshoe of razor-sharp coral.

(Above) Taylor Curtis makes history, being the first freerider to get barreled in surfing Mecca, Teahupo’o.

We kept a close watch on the building swell before we left. Taylor, Herald and Kohi anxiously waited until the swell peaked to make our trip down to Teahupo'o. There was some planning that had to be done in order for it to be worthwhile. Of course, when the swell is big, the surfers converge on the famed spot. Luckily, Taylor had some inside connections with some friends that allowed the riders to actually have some time on the wave. 

We arranged for a boat and driver to provide me a place to shoot off of. Up until this point, all of the Tahitian stand-up riders had never tried to ride the wave. As a word of warning, the wave is highly respected and protected by the locals. This is no place for amateurs.

With everything in line, we headed for the end of the road. When we got there, in the distance we could see Teahupo'o, and it was surely living up to everything we had heard. Nerves were wired as the boys geared up and rode out to the massive barrel. The weather was not the best, which accounted for the lack of surfers. But pouring rain and strong winds didn't affect the wave as the surging walls of water came one after another.

It was history in the making that day as Taylor, Herald and Kohi became the first professional freeriders to leave their mark on Teahupo'o.

"When I got my first wave, I was thinking, ‘Wow! I'm riding Teahupo'o!' It was intimidating, but a thrill to ride. The drop was too intense for a SuperJet, so I would come from the inside when it started to bowl and try to get tubed. It wasn't easy. I learned getting in the barrel isn't the problem, it's getting out. When this thing shuts down, you better be in a safe place or you're in for the hold down of your life," Taylor recounted as we headed in for the day.

A day we all will never forget.